This morning the alarm went off but I didn’t get up. Then it was 6:30 and I realized the radio was tuned to the wrong station. Hmm…who might have changed it?
I got up and didn’t have much time to knit so I didn’t even pick up my needles. Steve turns on the tv and eats breakfast at 6:45. I made my chai and look at the bookshelf for something interesting. Ah! The Vogue Knitting magazine I purchased this weekend.
When I browsed through it this weekend, I found it hardly inspiring. But this morning, I found all sorts of interesting things.
There is a sweater (#20 if you have the magazine) that I was already thinking of making a smaller version for Ben. I showed the picture to Steve and asked if he’d wear that. He said yes. So he won’t make fun of me if I make it for Ben or Joey…or perhaps I’ll make it for him.
Or perhaps not. I went online to look for the yarn used in the pattern. For the size I would knit Steve, the pattern calls for 30 skeins of yarn. I found a place online that sells the yarn in bags of ten skeins for $78 each. So $234 to knit my dear husband a sweater. I love him…but not that much.
The sweater I knit him for Christmas 2005 – Galway Guy from Interweave Knits – took ten skeins of Plymouth Galway at $6 per skein. It kept me busy knitting for at least forty hours and took me four months to finish. A football game, on the other hand, last three and a half hours and costs $45 for the ticket, to say nothing of what you might spend on parking, eating at the game, and going out afterward. But that’s beside the point.
Ironically, Vogue is known for publishing patterns that, if knit in the yarn shown, would cost upwards of $500 to knit. Which is why I buy Vogue Knitting for inspiration only. And it is certainly filled with lots of inspiration.
This morning I was intrigued by the stitch patterns they use to make the knitted coats (as described on page 96, if you have the magazine). I’m thinking of perhaps designing a coat for one of the boys using either the double knit stitch or tweed stitch shown. Then I read about the Scandanavian hand knitting and how they sometimes line their sweaters with fabric. I could knit a coat and line it with flannel shirt material or something for extra warmth. Ideas, ideas…
In every issue they have an article featuring a designer – how she got into designing, what her thought process is, etc. Our next Knitter’s Guild meeting is about designing knitwear and getting things to fit. Mary Pat asked those of us who have designed our own patterns – specifically naming Mary Ellen and myself – to share a bit of our thought process and how we design. This article covered the process very well, in my opinion. You start by learning how to knit and following other’s patterns. Then you look at patterns and start altering them to better suit your ideas or needs. “From there,” they said in the article, “it was a natural leap to designing garments from scratch.” Well said.
Which leads me to another gripe about patterns and how they’re written.
I emailed Interweave Knits last week to ask how the sizing of their patterns corresponds to the Craft Yarn Council of America sizing which is supposedly the standard in the industry. I asked because magazines such as Vogue Knitting and knitty list both the size as well as the finished measurements of the garment which is very helpful in knowing which size to knit. Interweave Knits, regretfully, only gives the finished measurment of the pattern, which leaves the knitter guessing how much ease the designer intended and thus what size would be the most appropriate for the person being knit for.
This was the response I got:
Our sizes are based on actual measurements and do not always correspond, in a series, to ready-to-wear garment sizes. In terms of ease, the standard inch measurements for different fits are as follows: negative (zero) to 1” ease: fitted or close fitting; 2”-3” ease, standard fit; and 4”-6” oversized. Choosing the size closest to these guidelines and your size will give you the fit you desire. Another good tip is to measure a garment that you already own that has the fit you are looking for.
Here is a sample pattern description from Vogue Knitting:
Close-fitting shaped jacket in textured bee stitch pattern with set in sleeves and knitted belt. Sized for Small (Medium, Large, X-Large).
So Vogue clearly indicates which ease category the garment fits into and specifies the size intended. If you take the amount of ease mentioned and the size given, they clearly follow the Craft Yarn Council of America standard measurements.
Interweave Knits on the other hand, has differing descriptions for each pattern. Sometimes those descriptions include key words such as “fitted,” “close-fitting,” or “oversized.” Most of the time, they do not. So even with the helpful information I received in their reply, determining the correct size to wear is still pretty much a shot in the dark.
Now I understand that as a designer, when it comes to sizing, in a given design, the math doesn’t necessarily work out to correspond to regular sizing. You may have a three-inch repeat making it easier to size in three-inch increments and more difficult to match the four-inches increments in the official sizing measurments. Believe me, the math is complicated enough without having to try to design for a particular size.
But…are you designing something that will be fun to knit…or are you designing something that is fun to knit and that someone will actually be able to wear?
It may be a lot easier for the editors of Interweave Knits to publish patterns this way, but it leads to a lot more frustration on the part of knitters. There is nothing more disappointing than to spend a chunk of money on some beautiful yarn and follow a pattern to the letter only to have the garment turn out to be completely un-wearable.
Granted, there are many different body types out there, and what fits one person won’t fit the next. But if your bust is 40 inches which corresponds to a size large, you may need to shorten the waist to fit yours, but at least you know where to start. If the garment has one to two inches of ease, and your body matches the schematic within that range for the bust but not for the hips, you can make the necessary adjustments for the hips. But if you don’t know whether you’re supposed to have four to six inches of ease or one to two inches, it’s very difficult to make the correct determination.
Interweave Knits is a US publication, and Vogue Knitting is an international publication. Over in Europe, they knit differently than we do in the US. You’re expected to understand the basics and be able to execute them without being hand-fed stitch-by-stitch directions, which seems to be the standard in the US.
I’ll never forget the German sock patterns I used to knit. They would spell out exactly how to re-create the stitch pattern for the leg. They’d tell you how far to knit, and then they’d tell you to “do the heel using the method you prefer” with similar open-ended instructions for the toe. US patterns spell out stitch by stitch how to turn a heel using the heel-flap method. In reality, there are many ways to turn a heel, and the various methods correspond to different types of feet. If you’re a Thinking Knitter, you can use the heel turn method that works best on your foot, and you’ll end up with a sock that fits your foot very well rather than just okay or not at all.
When I write patterns, I shall include the stitch by stitch directions for the knitters that feel they need it. But since I won’t be worrying about space, I shall give general directions that describe what you’re about to do in terms that the Thinking Knitter will appreciate. There will be an appendix in the back that will spell out certain techniques. Ultimately knitters will be able to create their own version of what I made using stitch counts that are appropriate to their garment. Sounds vague, I know, but once you see a pattern, you’ll know what I mean.
Off to do some pattern writing…